As the buzziest ingredient in health, wellness, skincare and beauty, CBD is turning up in all kinds of products, from tinctures and lotions to mascaras and cooking oils.
Here’s what you need to know about what CBD is, what it can and cannot do, and how to find formulations worthy of your hard-earned green.
WHAT IS CBD ANYWAY?
Cannabidiol, or CBD, is one of more than 100 compounds that exist in the cannabis plant. The most famous of these is THC, or delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol, which is what inspired Harold and Kumar to head to White Castle — it’s the psychoactive compound that gets you high.
CBD isn’t intoxicating, but it has shown promise for promoting calmness, though conclusive studies have yet to be done. The US Food and Drug Administration has approved only one CBD medication to date: Epidiolex, for treating seizures in children.
But other studies are underway to determine if CBD can help ease anxiety and post-traumatic stress, reduce insomnia, and alleviate pain and inflammation.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
CBD, THC and other cannabis compounds work by interacting with the body’s natural endocannabinoid system, a regulatory system that influences mood, appetite and energy. Mammals like us have this system throughout our bodies, including the skin, gut and nervous system. Cannabinoids stimulate this system and, some say, promote balance among the many bodily functions it helps regulate.
WHAT CAN CBD REALLY DO?
Though often touted as a cure-all, CBD won’t erase wrinkles or clobber cancer. In fact, when it comes to double-blind controlled studies — the scientific gold standard — few have been done on human patients (and the rodents involved aren’t talking).
But Canadian chiropractic doctor Andrew Kerklaan has seen ample anecdotal evidence of the compound’s effectiveness among patients at his clinic in Montreal — enough that he was moved to create a namesake line of topical products infused with CBD.
“Cannabinoids can really impact the three physical things we complain about the most: pain from nerves, inflammation and muscle tension,” Kerklaan says. “When it comes to pain response and sleep, there’s a long list of conditions that can be tremendously improved and affected by cannabis.”
Our skin has its own endocannabinoid system, he says, which is what makes topical products so potentially effective: They can provide localized relief for pain and inflammation without penetrating into the bloodstream.
Other CBD products, like gummies and tinctures, are meant to be ingested, which sends them into the bloodstream for potential whole-body benefits.
After reporting on CBD for cannabis-delivery service EazeWellness, I was curious about its anti-anxiety benefits. I already take other herbs to quell anxiety, like ashwagandha and rhodiola, so why not add CBD to the mix? (Doctors do widely agree that the compound is safe.)
I opted for a tincture from Mary’s Medicinals because I’d previously interviewed the company founder. I was religious about putting a drop or two under my tongue each morning, and even brought the little vial with me on vacation. But with the traveling and the time change, I accidentally skipped taking for a few days and didn’t notice myself feeling more nervous. Then again, I was on vacation.
CBD is also popular now for pets, and we gave it to our dog, Duke, when he was having hip issues. He wouldn’t let me squirt it into his mouth, so instead I drizzled the oil on his food. We gave it to him twice a day for more than a month, and I guess it helped? It’s hard to say what role it played exactly in his recovery. (He’s fine now, BTW.)
WHAT SHOULD YOU LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING CBD?
One key thing to know, Dr.Kerklaan said during a recent appearance in Los Angeles, is that hemp seed oil DOES NOT contain CBD. Companies jumping on the cannabinoid bandwagon are eager to claim their products contain plant compounds. While hemp seed oil does contain omega-3s and may be an effective moisturizer, it doesn’t have the potential healing power of CBD.
Also, Kerklaan says to look for labels that say “full-spectrum” rather than CBD isolate. Full-spectrum means the whole hemp plant was used to derive the CBD oil, where isolate means just that: CBD alone was extracted from the plant.
Full-spectrum extract is more powerful because of what’s called the “entourage effect,” Kerklaan explains: Early research shows cannabinoids may be more effective when working in concert with each other.
Cannabis studies have been limited in the US because the plant is still federally classified a Schedule 1 narcotic alongside heroin and LSD, indicating a high potential for abuse and no medical application. Grassroots (ha) efforts have been underway for years to change this.
But cannabis is federally legal in Canada, and university-led studies are thriving there, so we’ll soon know more about the healing potential of CBD and other cannabis compounds.
Meanwhile, your lashes will probably be fine without it.